Assembling the X-axis

Needed parts:

  • X-Axis idler
  • X-Axis carriage
  • X-Axis motor holder
  • 2 x M5 nuts
  • 1 x M5 bolt
  • 4x LM8UU linear bearings
  • 2 x 470 mm smooth rods
  • 1 x NEMA17 motor
  • 3 x M3x10 bolt
  • 1 x Pulley


Mount the X-axis stepper motor with the M3x10 bolts on the printed part


The Belt tensioner

Parts Needed:

  • X-Axis belt tensioner
  • 2 x F624 bearings
  • 1 x M4 nuts
  • 1 x M4x30 screws


Slide the M4 nut into the trap op the idler. If the M4 nut doesn’t fits in the trap. Don’t force it in, you might damage the printed part. Instead use a soldering iron to heat the nut, and gently push the nut  into the trap.

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Mounting the linear bearings in the printed parts


Slide in the LM8UU bearings into the printed parts with reasonable force. You might want to clean the printed parts first. Insert a smooth rods into the bearings before doing so if necessary.

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Insert the X-belt tensioner in the right-side printed part.

Parts needed:

  • 2x M4 x 25mm screws
  • 1x M4 bolt

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Now, slide the smooth rods through the bearings.



Mounting the M5 nuts in the printed parts

Use a length of threaded M5 rod and a soldering iron to gently melt the M5 nut in the printed part. Remove the threaded rod.


Now the M5 nut sits firmly into it’s trap


In a later stage, your printer should look like this:


 Installing the belt and pulley.

I used a GT2 pulley and belt to drive my X-Axis.




First, screw the pulley on the motor shaft like this. Align the pulley so that the belt can run smoothly through the hole in the printed part. Further information of how to install the driver belt can be found in chapter 5 (The Extruder).


Now proceed to chapter 4: The Z-Axis


Assembling the Y-axis

You need the part below for assembling the Y-axis

  • 2x smooth rod 410mm, 8 mm diameter
  • 2x M10 threaded rod, 440 mm
  • 4x M10 threaded rod, 210 mm
  • 3D printed Y corners
  • 3D printed Y axis motor holder 
  • 3D printed axis idler printed part 
  • 12x M10 nut
  • 12x M10 washer
  • 22x M8 nut
  • 22x M8 washer
  • 2x M3x10 bolt
  • 2x F624 bearing
  • 1x M4x30 bolt
  • 1x M4x20 bolt
  • 3x M4 nut
  • 1x M4 washer


Mounting the Y-Axis carriage and parts


Take a stepper motor, the Y axis motor holder printed part and two M3x10 bolts. Mount it to the motor as shown. Set aside for later.


Mount the two bearings with the M4 bolt and 2 M4 nuts on the idler. Take care not to over-tighten the bolt; the two bearings have to rotate freely.


The M4 nut almost never fits in the trap. Don’t force it in, you might damage the printed part. Instead use a soldering iron to heat the nut, and gently push the nut into the trap.


Side view of the idler.


The belt tension-er mounted in the Y-frame Mounting the Y-frame is pretty straightforward. Take care you place the axis and the bearings of the idler exactly in the middle of the frame.





For both the X-Axis and the Y-Axis you need approximately xx cm (yy inch) of timing belt. I used 2.0 mm pitch timing belt (GT2) and two GT2 pulleys with 20 teeth. You will need this data when calibrating the printer.



Slide the pulley onto the motor shaft as shown and tighten it with two M3x4 grub screws. Leave a bit of space between the motor body and the pulley.


To complete the next step, your Heated Bed should be ready and mounted on the plywood (see chapter 6). Flip over the Y-Axis and use wood screws to attach Y-belt clamp to the plywood. Pass the belt over the motor and belt tensioner and put together both ends of the belt and fasten them with tie-wraps. Use the idler to set the tension of the belt.


Installing the Y-Axis carriage on the wooden frame

If your frame is finished, you can install the Y-Axis carriage on the boxed frame. If you have used 12mm plywood (like I did), you will notice that you need to fill up a gap between the 10mm threaded rods. I used two pieces op plywood of 7 mm thick.



One other problem I ran into was the Y-Axis stepper motor. Its base collided with the boxed frame and I had to carve out a couple of mm plywood to fix this.





Now proceed to chapter 3: The X-Axis

The frame

For the box frame I used 12 mm (1/2″)  plywood. A wooden frame is cheaper than a laser-cut metal frame, and you can easily change the layout of the frame (as I did), and add other components. Building the frame is the easiest part of the whole project. The most important thing is that the whole construction has to be perfect perpendicular, most of all the front has to be perpendicular with the base.

One other advantage of building a wooden frame is you can alter the dimensions. I increased the print height with 60 mm by making the front panel 6 cm higher. Since I bought the smooth and threaded rods per meter I could alter this easily.

One other adjustment I made is adding an extra base plate of 450×500 mm below the Y-Axis bed. It gives the construction more rigidity and makes it easier to move around the printer.

Used parts:

  • 12 mm plywood (see drawing below for exact measurements)
  • 22x 3,5 x 35 mm wood screws.



The main parts of the frame. With pre drilled holes. To do a neat job, use a countersink to sink the screws.




The finished frame should look like this:


For now, this is it. In a later phase of the building stage I have added the extra base plate.


Now proceed to chapter 2: The Y-Axis